![]() The directions on the bottle were very helpful with how to use the stuff. The red was much more Lightning Red than the kind of red ish it looked like before. After the polish I stood back and could see that the color of the vehicle looked more vibrant and much richer. The Polishing product was great, it worked just like the Compound did and left a really nice shine to the entire vehicle. What the test spot looked like, Bottom is original paint and TOP is what the paint looked like after the Compound You can see that the handle is pretty faded from the rest of the paint, the compound quickly fixed this and the Polish did the final touch to it (more picture coming soon) The pads build up with gunk quickly as the paint was in really rough shape and the compound was doing some work thats for sure. I probably should have used a more aggressive foam pad to make the work a lot quicker but first time and didnt want to burn through my clear coat as the paint was very soft from what I have heard from people who do detail Subarus. It left very minor scratches left over after one pass so I hit the paint with a second pass to make sure I got the results I wanted. It didnt spray unless my dumb self lifted my DA (still working on the technique of holding the dang thing). The Compounding product was very easy to work with and it broke down well and fairly quickly I would assume like any other paint correction product would. AKA Tape anything you dont intend to compound or polish. Although there really is no warning on what to clearly avoid so I would recommend that you just tape up everything that looks plastic, rubbery, or vinyl like just to be safe. Instructions were clear and well guiding. The Blackfire Kit was actually really helpful with instructions on each bottle of exactly what speed to use and roughly the dial number setting, I did cross reference my DA's manual to ensure each number corresponded with the correct RPM. Then prepped the entire vehicle and taped everything I was not going to correct. I decontaminated the paint with Iron X and a light duty CG Clay bar (I medium duty clay barred the car earlier in the year). I did do the full prep work to work up to the paint correction, I washed it thoroughly with a dual bucket wash method and four wash mitts, two for the first wash and two for the decontamination. Ballin on a budget so at the time I only got 4 of each and then 2 of each of the 3" CSS pads for the small hard to get areas. I knew these were the three I needed as essentials for any paint correction kit. I also purchased 5.5" CSS pads for my DA which were Orange, White, and Grey. I purchased this kit as I knew it was a solid product with a good name backing it. What the whole vehicles paint looked like + Paint chips (a lot of them sadly) 3 6.5in Pads ( 1 orange, 1 white, 1 grey).To start off I used the Blackfire Total Swirl Remover kit for this paint correction. I purchased it as a new years gift to myself after graduating and got a slick deal on it due to some things I noticed about the paint and other things that were fixed. The car came from Florida and was obviously not taken well care of (left outside a lot I would assume + automatic car washes). To begin with the paint had a lot of hard water marks, etchings, and deep scratches all over the place, as well as faded door handles, bad swirl marks, and hazing. This past weekend I did my first paint correction on my Lightning Red 2012 Subaru Impreza WRX.
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